Wednesday, 25 July 2012

Church of Saint Stefano - Venice

I am venturing into the murky world of fiction, and one of my characters is based in Venice. This naturally led me to think of parts of Venice that are often passed by, or seldom mentioned.

Tuesday, 24 July 2012

20% OFF - offer on LULU.COM

If you buy one or both of my books from Lulu.com from now until midnight on the 27th July 2012, you can SAVE 20%!

Simply go to the homepage, note the Promotion Code and buy a book or two!

 

DON'T MISS OUT ON SUCH A GOOD OFFER. Lulu.com

Thursday, 19 July 2012

From Istanbul, With Love

Dun da la dun dun dun da, dun da la dun dun da, dun de la dun dun da, DADAH de la Dah! (The James Bond theme, in case you missed it).

Monday, 16 July 2012

Palladio - Veneto's Architect

One of the jewels in Veneto's crown is the presence of the villas of Palladio.

A LITTLE BIT OF ITALY - PAPERBACK AVAILABLE NOW!

The paperback version of A Little Bit of Italy, the second of the City Chronicles trilogy, is available to purchase from Lulu.com.

A Little Bit of Italy tells of my travels, by train, from Venice to Rome via Florence, Siena, Milan and Pisa, and the added bonus of the Bay of Naples.There's history, culture, architecture, churches and the odd dead body. There's an insight into the relationship with my fiancé who travelled with me (I don't mind telling you, it wasn't good!); but most of all, this is my look at the parts of Italy most travelled.

Grab your copy now!


An e-book versions is also available from Lulu.com and the kindle version from Amazon.co.uk and Amazon.com.

Sunday, 15 July 2012

Blue Mosque, Istanbul

Research is under way for the third and final of the City Chronicles travelogues - Crossing the Bosporus.

Wednesday, 4 July 2012

Sleepy Italy

It was a hot couple of weeks in Veneto in  June. Humidity was high, the sun was merciless and all I wanted to do was sit in a bath of cold water. I found it too hot to sleep; many Italians did not.

Apart from the libraries, where most people tend to be asleep anyway, shops and offices emptied somewhere between midday and 1pm and remained closed until around 4pm. Italy went into a self-induced slumber from which nothing was going to rouse it. 

While many sought the shade to pass the hours, some lay in the full glare of the sun, managing to combine rest with tanning.

Some created footrests from borrowed chairs.











Whilst others, despite the noise of a busy station, dropped off and stayed fast asleep for the duration of my time there.

In the village of Grignano Polesine, half day closing is still a strictly adhered to pleasure. I am used to shops being closed on Sundays, and the long afternoon breaks, from living in Spain (the bonus is late opening), but a half day as well? It is like stepping back to the England of the 1970s. Without fail we saved our shopping until Wednesday afternoon, only to have to cycle back to the house with baskets empty of provisions. It was just a trifle annoying!

The slow pace of life does have its upsides - few people rush, sitting for two hours with a book in the afternoon is not a guilty pleasure - just pleasure, and the heat of the day can be passed with minimal effort and movement. When we weren't out and about I made the most of those few hours of peace and relaxation and lay sprawled in front of a fan, eyes shut, praying for rain.

Tip - Monuments open on a Monday are few and far between, so always check before you head off to avoid disappointment.

Away from the Madding Crowds of Italy (II) - Palladio and Palazzos of Fratta Polesine

View of Fratta Polesine from Villa Badoer
As the train pulled away from the deserted train station, where weeds push through the cracks in the platform and hug the rail tracks, we headed down the dusty road lined with trees and concrete buildings that slept behind plastic shuttered eyes.

Tuesday, 3 July 2012

Far from the Madding Crowds of Italy (I) - Lendinara, 'Little Athens'

The Adigetto flowed towards the centre of the town; black dragonflies, with feathery wings, danced across the water. The far side of the river played host to the eighteenth century Teatro Ballarin, formerly a storehouse dating from the fifteenth century, and a statue of the locally born sculptor and artist Lorenzo Canozi. The air rippled with the sound of cobbles being shaped for the restored road otherwise, silence. We had arrived in Lendinara, once known as 'little Athens' a priest at the Sanctuary later told us, as it held so many sights in such a small space. 

We had taken a local train, decorated with red and purple graffiti from Rovigo to Lendinara, along tracks and to stations that did not seem to have seen traffic for some time. But at every stop there was passenger movement. The stations may not be manned, a disembodied voice announces the comings and goings of trains - we walked across the one line to catch the train on the sliver of a platform on the other - but they are utilised. 

Risorgimento Piazza, Lendinara

Crossing a cobbled footbridge we entered the medieval piazza of Lendinara. An eleventh century document shows that the town was replete with castle, towers, factories and a cultured population at that time. The Palazzo Pretorio that stands in the piazza dates from the 1300s and had been used as a gaol among other things. The Torre dell' Orologico was originally a gateway into the fortified town but was turned into a clock in the 1500s. 

The duomo, campanile and to the right, the towers of the
church of S. Giuseppe and the Sanctuary.




From the centre we followed the myriad of brown signs that point the way to the numerous churches that this small town boasts. In close proximity we found the duomo of Santa Sofia, the Chiesa de Santo Giuseppe and the Sanctuary, officially known as the Chiesa of Our Lady of Pilastrello. The duomo boasts a separate campanile that is one of the tallest in Italy at 101 metres high. Unfortunately the opening times of the duomo were not as advertised, so we passed to the Sanctuary along quiet cobbled streets, hugging the shade wherever possible as the afternoon sun beat down. 


The Sanctuary is home to a statue of the Madonna made out of dark olive wood. Beneath a large replica 'miracle healing' water is dispensed. We each took a cup full of the water, just in case, and asked a rather smiley and helpful priest as to the story behind it. 

On the night of the 8th and 9th May 1509 the house of Giovanni Borezzo was destroyed during a storm. A survivor from the house was a small statue of the Virgin with Child which was found radiating a strange light. The tale of the statue attracted a number of visitors and a small column (the Pilastrello) was built on the spot to house the statue. In 1576 Ludovico Borezzo, a descendant of the statue's owner Giovanni, started to renovate the damaged pillar, taking from a nearby fountain spring water for the masonry work. The clear water become red, as if with blood. This was seen as a miracle and miracle healing powers were attributed to the water. The site became a popular destination for sick people. The sanctuary was built between 1577 and 1583 and the spring was deviated into it. 

The original statue is held in an elevated position at the tops of stairs above the altar, behind glass and surrounded by angels. The afternoon sun made it dazzle. The Sanctuary is also home to some wonderful frescos and works of art. As we stood admiring them we could hear the singing of the Benedictine monks as they held their mid-afternoon prayer (Vespers). There is something very soothing to the sound of their prayer.

Where the 'miracle water' is dispensed
from in the Sanctuary.


As we wandered the town, small squares opening up before us, a church on almost every corner, we could imagine how the town would have been in its heyday. It is nice to see towns that are not over-run with tourist shops, and no sign of a dreaded fast food place, but I wonder if they are missing out on potential business at a time when income streams should not be overlooked. The presence of the brown signs indicating the way to the historical sites is evidence that the town knows it has much to share, but there were no other outsiders that we could spot.
The Adrigetto.
Lorenzo Canozi, son of Lendinara, painter and sculptor.

These sleepy backwaters of Italy, sitting on their once navigable canals and streams, could be easily missed. I would heartily recommend utilising the small regional train lines and dropping in on them - you'd be surprised at what sits behind the deserted train stations. Our day was not yet done, Fratta Polesine, the next town along the track was to be our second port of call for the day.

The train arriving at Platform 2...
Lendinara to Fratta Polesine.

Lendinara Tourist Board (though their info is not always spot-on!) http://www.comune.lendinara.ro.it/iat.html
Lendinara can be reached by train from Rovigo http://www.trenitalia.com/

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